Day 30 At Sea toward San Diego

Reflections on my experience:  Today is the last day of our cruise.  It has been an interesting adventure visiting the western coast of Mexico, Central America and Peru.  This is a rather homogenous collection of countries that are rich in history and culture.  Their common language provides a consistent backdrop to the sights, sounds, smells and tastes to which we were introduced.  With neither of us speaking the language well enough to carry on a conversation we relied on guides and locals that had some proficiency with English to help me get some insight into what I was experiencing. 

One of the impressions I came away with is that the societies we saw on this trip are not that much different from what we found in Viet Nam, Cambodia or Thailand.  Open air markets seem to be the most common sources of fresh food. This suggests that trips to the market are required on a daily basis since this food if not consumed quickly will spoil.  Sanitary conditions are not what we expect in the U.S.  Hot weather is a constant in these areas with the variable being rain.  Either you are in the rainy season or not.  We were not subjected to the rainy season which was good for our purposes but made for a very dry, brown landscape.  During the rainy season when it rains it does so all day.  Some of these place get 6 feet of rain in that three month period.  It would be interesting to see how things change during these periods.

I saw some areas of poverty in each of the countries we visited.  Nowhere did I see large communities of poor people.  I think this is due to two reasons.  First these countries do not have a social safety net for people to receive money from the government.  I think this makes people much more self-sufficient.  I think it keeps people motivated and willing to do a wide variety of jobs to make ends meet.  Many of these people are farmers and while they are still poor they are sustaining themselves.  The second reason, I believe is that we were intentionally not exposed to those areas by the tour operators. 

I did notice there were many small children and babies.  The birth rate in these countries seems to be very high.  I think this is because families rely on the younger children to grow up to take care of their elderly parents.  Before that they work along side their parents.

One thing that riding around in taxis and buses made apparent is that all of these countries have wholeheartedly embraced speed bumps.  It makes perfect sense as they are self policing.  Go too fast and you are bounced off the ceiling of your vehicle.  The majority are of the type to allow you to maintain a speed of about 20 mph with no problem, however anything over that and you know it.  On my two hour ride to Machu Picchu we must have slowed for at least fifty of these speed bumps.

These societies display many paradoxes which I found interesting.  Almost everywhere we found some level of internet service.  Yet in those same areas there seemed to be a low literacy rate.  Going forward I can’t imagine that the internet isn’t going to change the literacy rate dramatically.  When you see men and women carrying bundles lf sticks or selling their hand picked produce on a small roadside table to earn a living and then see ads for internet it causes you to pause.  Cell phones are everywhere.  It seems that no matter what your level of income is you can afford a cell phone.  It seems that these societies have one foot in the early 1900’s and the other in 2011.  What this means going forward I don’t know but it seems that these societies are being divided into two groups.  One who can react and participate in the technological age and a group that cannot.

Mexico is investing a lot of money and effort to develop their ports.  They seem to focus on the lesser known ports we visited.  Clearly, Acapulco and Cabo San Lucus are well known, highly developed tourist attractions and it would have been hard to notice an impact from government investment.  In the other ports we could plainly see the improvements that were designed to make the ports attractive to cruise ships.  Not only were there the tangible infrastructure projects but there was also the local dancers on the piers, the musicians playing as we entered the dock area and the general attitude of the guides and locals.  It was evident that they are genuinely happy that you have decided to visit their country. 

I feel fortunate to have been born into the circumstances that provided the opportunities to be successful in my chosen field.  Most of the people in the countries we visited have a much harder time getting the education and the chance to select how they want to lead their lives.  So many of these people have their futures predetermined for them the moment they are born.  This is not to suggest that they are unhappy in what they are doing because they appear to be happy.  It is just that when you are exposed to the menu of opportunities available to us in the U.S. you have a bigger appetite than could be satisfied in these countries.  For me the value of travel is that you appreciate what you have and also come to understand how others around the world spend their lives. 

Day 29 At Sea toward San Diego

It is quickly closing in on the end of our cruise.  Today and tomorrow are both sea days and then we get off and back to the real world.  Tonight is our last formal night after which we can pack our good clothes.

This was a typical sea day with a lecture or two and two trivia opportunities.  I am attaching a picture of our trivia team who we enjoyed playing with. 

As we head north the weather is getting a little bit cooler much to the consternation of many of the passengers.  Talk about what we will find when we return home becomes a staple of our conversations.  The library is now inundated with books being returned in massive numbers as people either finish reading them or give up and admit that the books they hoarded will not get read this trip. 

One of the things that helped people keep track of the day of the week were the floor mats in the elevators which were changed daily and spelled out the day of the week.   

  

Day 28 Manzanillo, Mexico

We entered our last port of call on this cruise this morning.   This port is still well south of the Baja Peninsula and appears to have a larger commercial influence than any of the other Mexican ports we have visited.  We could see a large container facility opposite from where we docked. 

Our berth was right in the heart of the shopping district or malecon (boardwalk) as the locals refer to it.  Here they have a large sailfish statue that pays homage to their history as the sailfish capital of the world. 

I took a short walk through town while Chris took a tour.

Chris – Reflections of Mexico - As we pulled out of our last port of call in Mexico I thought I’d share with you some thoughts I had about Mexico and what I did today on tour. I can’t say I was initially very excited for so many Mexican stops, but I must say I have really enjoyed the ports. I didn’t have the trepidation about Acapulco that Paul did for two reasons. First, if there was anyone more concerned for our safety than us…it was Holland America. I figured they couldn’t afford to lose any passengers as it’s bad for business and we were on their tours. Secondly, the research I did said that the taxi drivers that were killed were being paid by the cartels and it was still a turf war (course you didn’t see me in any taxis either!!) I felt very safe and the ports were very well protected. I loved seeing Acapulco as I had heard about it all my life, particularly from Mark. I was impressed by all their sculptures down by the harbor and of course their fabulous harbor. My favorite Mexican ports were the smaller ports of Huatulco, Zihuatanejo and today’s Manzanillo. Huatulco had beautiful bays we explored by boat while Zihuatanejo was special as we were able to see Ixtapa and their Club Med, where, if I’m not mistaken, Kay vacationed. Today on the way to a beautiful, quiet beach I saw gorgeous scenery…both the houses and the vistas.The expensive houses (one belonging to Julia Roberts) were white and had spectacularly colored flowers draped on them. It reminded me of Greece, but with more plentiful and colorful flowers. We were way up on a mountain so we had some stunning scenery as we overlooked a number of bays and saw the incredible houses. In general, I found the Mexican people very proud and friendly. I respected they needed to make a living selling us their wares, but when you said “no thanks” they left you alone. It appeared there was an all out PR campaign in every port to welcome tourist and to promote how beautiful and safe their port cities are. With all the hotels/condos and ongoing building there is, I’m sure they are concerned about the drop in tourism. I, for one, enjoyed very much our hot and fun days in Mexico. Now, I have a dessert buffet to get to on the Lido deck!

Day 27 Zihuatanejo, Mexico

This morning we anchored in the harbor of this port and tendered in to catch our tour.  We were off to a small island to spend the day on the beach and do some snorkeling.  This is the port for Ixtapa which is a relatively well known city possibly because of the Club Med here.  We noticed a strong police/military presence and had absolutely no problems at all.

Tendering always adds a spirit of adventure when departing or joining the ship.  In addition to the challenges posed by climbing on a small tender boat which bobs around, you add the median age of our passenger list and it makes for great theater.  I always worry that someone will get seriously hurt during this maneuver.  We made it today without any problems. 

Once onshore we were bussed a few miles and put on some small boats to be ferried out to the island where we were to spend the day.  The island has three lovely beaches on it.  One was right in front of where we were to have lunch.  The second beach had a coral reef just offshore and the third was more open to the ocean.  As you can see from the pictures I decided to snorkel.  Let me say before you see the pictures, the life jacket I was wearing was made for a small child.  All evidence to the contrary and the culinary staff of the Rotterdam.   The water was nice and the fish were very pretty. 

We spent the balance of the day under umbrellas on the beach enjoying the warmth and avoiding the penetrating Mexican sun.  We avoided the shopping district just off the ship as it appeared to be crammed with the same items we have seen from the start of the cruise. 

Most importantly, when we returned to our stateroom there was a bottle of Champaign for Chris as her prize for winning the ships Oscar night predictions contest with a perfect score.   Congratulations to her!!!  To top that off, we won the trivia game just before dinner.

  

Day 26 Acapulco, Mexico

I ventured ashore here with a little trepidation due to the reports of violence here during the past few weeks.   Apparently, the drug lords are not threatened by a group of towel toting tourists on their way to the Fairmont Hotel pool and beach. 

We spent the day on the beach and around the pool at the Fairmont.  The day was hot with bright sunshine which made the sand on the beach feel like walking on hot coals.  There was a nice constant breeze that kept us comfortable although the fine sand would be swept up from time to time in light clouds of dust.  We had our own little hut/cabana all morning on the beach then after lunch we stayed around the pool area. 

This is a large city which is split in two because it is oriented around two separate bays separated an imposing hill descending to the ocean.  We docked in the northern bay and were bussed to the southern bay where the Fairmont is located.  Here, as in many of the other cities we have visited on this cruise, there is a noticeable police presence. 

The hillsides surrounding the bays are packed full of homes, apartments, condos, hotels and businesses.  Real estate here certainly comes dear with not an inch wasted.   As the day drew to a close we went up to the back deck to watch the Academy Awards on the large outdoor screen and see the hills turn into millions of tiny pinpoints of light. 

Day 25 Huatulco, Mexico

By far the nicest beaches we have seen on this cruise.  That is what this little port has to offer.  The recently expanded dock can now accommodate two cruise ships at one time.  The crowded little harbor boasts a myriad of water sport opportunities.

We took a motorized catamaran along the coast to see the many beaches this area is famous for.   Beautiful pristine beaches dot the otherwise rocky shoreline.  There we passed what once was a Club Med development but since their bankruptcy is now owned others who are trying to resurrect the facility into condos or a hotel.  Further down the coast we passed a house owned by Carlos Slim, one of the worlds richest men.   As you can see from the pictures this area has some beautiful developments and homes.  It seems that one of the reasons this has occurred here is that this is one of the few places where foreigners can actually own property in Mexico.  A policy, we were led to understand, designed to spur development.  It seems to have worked.

On the north side of the small costal village is an area formerly targeted for a large development that was cancelled in favor of creating a national park.  This preserve has some lovely beaches that can only be reached by boat. 

We were only able to see the village from the boat and therefore we do not have an accurate picture of what is inland.  I have the feeling that were we to drive a few miles in from the coast we would find an undeveloped backcountry consisting of jungle or forest.  It is like looking at the façade of a building designed to look grander and more elaborate than it really is.  Nevertheless, this would be a nice place to vacation if you enjoy water sports and great beaches.

After a nice relaxing day new had a special dinner at the onboard restaurant which was serving a special menu from Le Cirque, the famous New York eatery. 

Day 24 Puerto Chiapas, Mexico

This morning we docked in this lovely little port which has been rehabilitated in the last five years.  The Mexican government invested in upgrading this port facility with a wonderful result.  We were told that they only get about three cruise ships each month and during the rainy season months they get none as all the ships are headed to Alaska. 

They were very happy to see us and had a troupe of dancers on the pier to provide a bit of entertainment by dancing to traditional music.  The port itself is very small and can only handle one ship at a time.  You can see from the pictures what a pretty place the port is.

We took a bus into the city of Tapachula, about a 45 minute ride.  There we found a hive of activity surrounding the square in the center of town and the open air market a block away.  Once again, there was entertainment in the square where we saw a reincarnation of Poncho Villa singing, replete with a holstered hand gun.   There was also the obligatory flute player looking for tips.  We visited the museum which had some artifacts from the Aztec and Mayan cultures including an ornate skull decorated with turquoise and gold. 

We walked across the square to visit the outdoor market.  We have learned to visit these types of places early before the heat of the day.   I think the pictures give ample evidence as to why this is a good idea.  As hot as it was when we were there, consider walking among booths of hanging meat and fish when it is really hot.   We quickly decided to wait until we got back to the ship to have lunch.  The market was reminiscent of many of the markets we experienced in the South East Asian countries.   Refrigeration apparently is not deemed important to the sanitary storage of meat and fish. 

It was an interesting visit and I came away with a the clear understanding that Mexico is trying hard to improve their opportunities for tourism.